Snow, more snow: sometimes you should just stay in bed...

Distance: 53.5km. Ride Time: 5:45 hours.

When I looked out the window early this morning, it was raining outside, and quite likely it was snowing on the Remarkables, which were mostly obscured by cloud, but I could see in places a fresh covering a white powder. So, no cycling today I thought, and went back to bed. As it turned out, I should have trusted my first instinct, but when I looked out again the sky had cleared and the sun was shining. So with time in hand to make the 10am sailing of the Earnslaw, I packed quickly and headed off to find breakfast.

At the steamer wharf, the smell of coal smoke hung in the air. My bike was quickly loaded via the wide cargo gangway. There were already quite a few bikes aboard, and I discovered they were part of a guided group of day riders who would be taking the same route as myself, but with vehicle support. To my dismay, the guide informed me that that the road had recently been graded, which is rarely a good thing for cyclists. A cool wind was blowing, so I wore my rain jacket for the crossing, but I would end up wearing it all day.

The Earnslaw will be of great interest to anyone interested in steam engines. Two triple expansion engines power the ship, the steam is generated by coal fired boilers. These are rarely seen now outside static museum displays, let alone in a working vessel. The engine room can be viewed from the promenade deck, and you can go down to the upper level of the engine room for a closer look.

The short cruise across the lake was a pleasant and very scenic. I waited to take a photo of the steamer departing, and then set off along the freshly graded road, which skirted the lake shore. Overnight rain had settled the surface, but it was still loose and soft in places. After 10 kms, I came upon the grader parked by the roadside and the road surface was mostly good after.

Soon the road turned away from the lake and headed up the Von River valley. Further up the valley, dark clouds gathered ominously, and shortly it began to snow. This was just the first of many snow showers, which kept me shivering all day. And then I encountered the first of two fast flowing fords. I had to remove my shoes and brave the icy water barefoot. It was quite difficult to cross in the knee-deep water, and I had to wrestle the bike across in the fast current. Luckily my Ortlieb panniers were waterproof as claimed and none of my gear got wet.

After 25 kms I came to Von Hill, rarely mentioned in the journals I’ve read, but every bit as difficult as any of the passes I have crossed on the tour. Especially when there is a chill wind blowing and snow falling. I think I walked most of the way up, and at the top was confronted with a broad flat valley and km after km of rolling road.

And more snows storms, rolling up the valley. It’s at times like this when I question my choices, but in good weather it would probably have been a pleasant ride.

Soon after I came to the second ford, even deeper and wider to than the first, and again I wrestled the bike across in my bare feet. But surprisingly, my legs still felt OK, and then the road started heading downhill, and I was able to make good progress. Eventually at around 7pm I reached the turnoff into the lakes, and soon found the camping grounds. Quickly putting up the tent I crawled into my sleeping bag trying to warm up, and that is where I stayed. It took a long time to get warm, and with sandflies swarming around the tent door I didn’t want to bother with hot food, and made do with what I could find in my tucker bag.

The plan is to spend tomorrow here and go fishing, but unless this cold southerly stops blowing and the temperature rises. I doubt there’ll be much point.